Development of Functional Ingredients Adding Value to Skin and Hair Care Products

Utilization of Natural Components

Kao develops a range of functional ingredients in order to provide customers with reliable, science-based skin and hair care products.

As an example of unique botanical-derived ingredients, we discovered that a botanical extract called Chamomile ET, a botanical -derived active ingredient extracted from chamomile, inhibits melanin formation.
In addition, we found that tuberose polysaccharide (TPS) formed by callus cells protects the skin’s horny layer and blocks external stimuli to these layers. Furthermore, by applying chemical approaches to natural components, we have also been creating ingredients with new value: for example, t-flavanone derived from St. John’s wort, which stimulates hair growth*1 .
What is important is that the raw materials from which we make functional ingredients not only offer improved effects but also meet quality requirements, such as safety and compatibility. This means that profound knowledge and precise technology at the component level are essential.
As such, Kao is developing unique manufacturing methods that achieve both effective extraction based on understanding the features of active ingredients, and the elimination of unnecessary substances through highly sensitive analyses of minor pigment or irritants that affect quality.

Employing cutting-edge technology, such as the latest computational chemistry, opens up enormous opportunities to develop higher-functioning ingredients.
For example, Kao ran the computer simulations on structures of a glycodipeptide, an active component of ginger that improves wrinkles, and its target of action, the NEP protein, successfully creating a new functional molecule.
We will continue to provide new value in the form of beauty products that satisfy customers by accelerating the development of innovative ingredients based on the fusion of science and digitalization.

  • * 1 Nagasawa, A., Wakisaka, E., Kidena, H., Nomura, T., Hotta, M., Taguchi, H., Moriwaki, S. (2016). t-Flavanone Improves the Male Pattern of Hair Loss by Enhancing Hair-Anchoring Strength: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study. Dermatology and Therapy, 6, 59–68.

Development of t-flavanone (a base compound of quasi-drugs) with an enhanced hair-growing effect by structural optimization of astilbin, an active component contained in St. John’s wort.

Ingredient development by applying chemistry to natural components: Development of an active ingredient to stimulate hair growth from a component isolated from St. John’s wort

A detailed comparison of new and existing eucalyptus extracts. The new eucalyptus extract contains active components, called macrocarpals, in amounts equivalent to those contained in the existing eucalyptus extracts, whereas most of the unnecessary hydrophilic contaminants are excluded from the new extract.

Development of ingredients based on profound knowledge of components: Improving the functionality of eucalyptus extract components through precise analysis and purification

The result of structural analysis (by computer simulations) of a component that is contained in ginger and reduces wrinkles, Fru-Val-Tyr, and its target protein. A new functional molecule is created on the basis of the binding mode analysis.

Development of ingredients by combining technologies: optimization of a component isolated from ginger by simulation

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